Toulouse-Lautrec: the party in Montmartre at the end of the 19th century
A Parisian Legend Who Captured the Soul of Montmartre
Paris in the late 19th century was a whirlwind of art, excess, and revolution—and no one captured its raw energy better than Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Born into aristocracy but drawn to the gritty, glamorous underbelly of the city, Toulouse-Lautrec became the chronicler of Parisian nightlife, immortalizing dancers, singers, and cabaret stars in his bold, expressive posters. His work didn’t just document the era—it defined it.
Today, Paris still celebrates Toulouse-Lautrec’s legacy, from the neon-lit cabarets of Pigalle to the grand exhibitions at the Musée d’Orsay. If you’re visiting the city in 2024, you’re in luck: Lautrec’s spirit is alive in new exhibitions, hidden historical spots, and even modern reinterpretations of his iconic art. Here’s how to dive into his world—where high art meets wild nights.
Who Was Toulouse-Lautrec? The Man Behind the Myth
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864–1901) was a paradox: a count by birth, a bohemian by choice. His life was marked by tragedy—childhood illnesses stunted his growth (he was only 1,52 m), leaving him with a fragile physique—but his talent was titanic. Rejected by the conservative art world, he found his muse in Montmartre, the pulsating heart of Parisian counterculture.
Toulouse-Lautrec didn’t just paint the cabaret scene—he lived it. He was a regular at the Moulin Rouge, where he sketched dancers like La Goulue mid-kick, and at Le Chat Noir, the infamous cabaret that blended satire, music, and avant-garde art. His posters, with their sinuous lines and striking colors, were revolutionary. They turned advertising into art and made stars out of performers like Jane Avril and Yvette Guilbert.
But Toulouse-Lautrec’s life was as turbulent as his art. He drowned his physical pain and emotional struggles in absinthe, the neon-green “Green Fairy” that fueled—and destroyed—many artists of the era. By the time he died at 36, he had created over 700 paintings, 5,000 drawings, and 350 lithographs, many of which are now worth millions.
Toulouse-Lautrec’s Paris in 2024: Where to See His Art & Legacy
If you want to walk in Lautrec’s footsteps, Paris offers a mix of classic and contemporary experiences. Here’s where to find his influence today.
1. Musée d’Orsay: The Ultimate Lautrec Collection
No visit to Paris is complete without seeing the Musée d’Orsay, home to the world’s largest collection of Toulouse-Lautrec’s works. The museum’s Impressionist and Post-Impressionist galleries feature his most famous pieces, including:
- At the Moulin Rouge (1892–95) – A chaotic, vibrant snapshot of the cabaret’s backstage, where Toulouse-Lautrec himself appears in the background.
- La Goulue Arriving at the Moulin Rouge (1892) – The poster that made the can-can dancer a legend.
- Jane Avril (1893) – A haunting, elongated portrait of the “Melinite,” a dancer known for her eerie, hypnotic performances.
Pro tip: Visit on Thursday evenings when the museum stays open until 9:45 PM—just like Toulouse-Lautrec, you’ll see the art in a different, more atmospheric light.
2. Moulin Rouge: Still Dancing After 130+ Years
The Moulin Rouge isn’t just a tourist trap—it’s a living piece of Toulouse-Lautrec’s world. While the original 1889 building burned down in 1915, the current venue (rebuilt in 1921) still channels the same decadent spirit. Today, you can:
- See a show: The “Féerie” revue features 100 artists, 1,000 costumes, and the same can-can energy Lautrec loved. (Book tickets here.)
- Visit the museum: The Musée de Montmartre (just a short walk away) has a small but fascinating exhibit on Lautrec’s ties to the area.
- Sip a cocktail at the bar: Order an absinthe dripped the traditional way—just don’t overdo it like Toulouse-Lautrec did.
3. Le Chat Noir: The Birthplace of Cabaret Art
Though the original Le Chat Noir (opened in 1881) is long gone, its legacy lives on. This was where Toulouse-Lautrec rubbed shoulders with poets like Paul Verlaine and artists like Théophile Steinlen (creator of the famous “Tournee du Chat Noir” poster).
Today, you can:
- Visit the new Le Chat Noir at 68 Boulevard de Clichy—a modern cabaret with live music and a nod to the past.
- See Steinlen’s original posters at the Musée de Montmartre.
- Walk down Rue Lepic, where the old Chat Noir once stood (look for the plaque at No. 84).
4. Au Lapin Agile: The Last Bohemian Cabaret
If you want a taste of authentic, old-school Montmartre, head to Au Lapin Agile (“The Nimble Rabbit”). This tiny, wood-paneled cabaret has been hosting poets, singers, and drunks since 1860. Toulouse-Lautrec was a regular, and today, it’s one of the few places where you can still experience the raw, unpolished charm of 19th-century Paris.
- Go for the Friday or Saturday night shows—expect French chanson, satire, and maybe even a drunken poet or two.
- Order a carafe of wine and soak in the walls covered in vintage posters and graffiti.
- Look for the Picasso painting: The young Picasso once paid for drinks by sketching a harlequin on the wall (it’s still there).
5. Special Exhibitions in 2024: Toulouse-Lautrec’s Influence Today
Paris is celebrating Lautrec’s legacy with several must-see events this year:
- “Toulouse-Lautrec and the Stars of Paris” (until January 2025) at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs – Explores how Lautrec’s posters turned cabaret performers into celebrities.
- “Montmartre: Bohemian Myths” at the Musée de Montmartre – A deep dive into the neighborhood’s golden age, with rare Lautrec sketches.
- “Lautrec & the Night” at the Philharmonie de Paris – A multimedia concert blending his art with music from the era.
Beyond the Posters: Toulouse-Lautrec’s Hidden Paris
Most tourists stick to the big museums, but Toulouse-Lautrec’s Paris was full of dive bars, brothels, and backstreets. Here’s how to explore the lesser-known side of his world.
1. The Brothels of Rue des Moulins
Toulouse-Lautrec spent months living in and sketching the brothels of Rue des Moulins (near Les Halles). While the original buildings are gone, you can still walk the street and imagine the scene he depicted in his “Elles” series—a raw, unglamorous look at the lives of sex workers.
For a deeper dive:
- Read “The Brothel in Art” by Jill Berk Jiminez for context on his controversial works.
2. The Absinthe Bars of Pigalle
Absinthe was Toulouse-Lautrec’s muse and downfall. While the original “Green Fairy” was banned in 1915 (it’s now legal again), you can still experience it in historic bars:
- Le Comptoir Général (84 Quai de Jemmapes) – A colonial-themed bar with a great absinthe selection.
- L’Absinthe (24 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré) – A cozy spot with over 100 varieties.
- La Fée Verte (108 Rue de la Roquette) – A modern absinthe bar with a Lautrec-inspired vibe.
Warning: Absinthe is strong (45–75% alcohol). Sip slowly, and don’t forget the sugar cube and slotted spoon!
3. The Lost Cabarets: Where to Find Their Ghosts
Many of Toulouse-Lautrec’s favorite haunts are gone, but you can still find traces:
- Le Mirliton (where Aristide Bruant performed) – Now a generic bar at 88 Boulevard de Clichy, but the spirit lingers.
- La Butte Chaumont – Lautrec loved this park; climb to the temple at the top for a view of the city he adored.
- Cimetière de Saint-Ouen – Lautrec’s friend Jane Avril is buried here in an unmarked grave. Ask the caretaker for directions.
Toulouse-Lautrec’s Art in Modern Paris: From Street Art to Fashion
Toulouse-Lautrec’s influence isn’t just in museums—it’s alive in Parisian culture today.
1. Street Art & Graffiti
Montmartre’s walls are still a canvas for rebels. Look for:
- Murals on Rue Lepic – Some modern artists pay homage to Lautrec’s style.
- Le Mur des Je t’Aime (Square Jehan Rictus) – A romantic wall with 250 “I love you” in different languages, echoing Lautrec’s love of linguistic play in his posters.
2. Fashion & Design
Lautrec’s bold lines and colors inspire designers like:
- Jean Paul Gaultier – His 1990s collections often referenced can-can dancers.
- Christian Louboutin – His red-soled shoes are a nod to the Moulin Rouge’s glamour.
- Parisian vintage shops – Hunt for Lautrec-style posters at Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen.
3. Modern Cabarets with a Lautrec Twist
If you want a contemporary take on Toulouse-Lautrec’s world, try:
- Le Crazy Horse – A high-end cabaret with avant-garde performances.
- Paradis Latin – A mix of classic and modern burlesque.
How to Experience Paris Like Toulouse-Lautrec
Want to live (safely) like Toulouse-Lautrec for a day? Here’s your itinerary:
Morning: Art & Coffee
- Start at Café de la Nouvelle Mairie (19 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques) – A historic café where artists gathered.
- Visit the Musée d’Orsay to see Lautrec’s masterpieces.
Afternoon: Montmartre Exploration
- Walk up to Sacré-Cœur for a panoramic view.
- Lunch at Le Consulat (18 Rue Norvins), a classic Montmartre bistro.
- Visit the Musée de Montmartre and Au Lapin Agile.
Evening: Cabaret & Absinthe
- Dinner at Bouillon Pigalle (22 Boulevard de Clichy) – Affordable, lively, and very Lautrec.
- Catch a show at the Moulin Rouge or Le Chat Noir.
- End the night with absinthe at L’Absinthe.
Late Night: Like a True Bohemian
- If you’re still standing, head to Le Truskel (12 Rue Foyatier), a microbrewery with a punk-rock vibe—Lautrec would approve.
Why Toulouse-Lautrec Still Matters Today
Toulouse-Lautrec wasn’t just an artist—he was a cultural revolutionary. He:
- Elevated advertising to art – His posters were the first to be collected as fine art.
- Gave voice to the marginalized – He painted prostitutes, drunks, and outcasts with dignity.
- Invented the modern celebrity portrait – His images of Jane Avril and La Goulue were the 19th-century equivalent of Instagram fame.
In a city that’s constantly reinventing itself, Toulouse-Lautrec’s Paris—a world of raw emotion, unapologetic hedonism, and artistic rebellion—still feels fresh. Whether you’re sipping absinthe in a dimly lit bar or staring at his posters in a museum, you’re connecting with a man who loved Paris as fiercely as he lived.
Final Tips for Your Toulouse-Lautrec-Inspired Paris Trip
- Best time to visit: Spring or fall—summer crowds can ruin the mood.
- Dress the part: Think berets, scarves, and a slightly rumpled charm.
- Read before you go:
- “Toulouse-Lautrec: A Life” by Julia Frey
- “Montmartre: A Cultural History” by Nicholas Hewitt
- Listen to: Édith Piaf, Aristide Bruant, or Yvette Guilbert on Spotify to set the mood.
Paris is always magical, but seeing it through Lautrec’s eyes makes it wilder, richer, and more alive. So grab a glass of absinthe, step into a cabaret, and let the spirit of Montmartre take over.
After all, as Lautrec himself might say: “The best way to appreciate art is to live it.”