Arras
Discover Arras, a hidden gem of Hauts-de-France, where history blends with modernity in elegant fashion. Just 50 minutes by TGV from Paris, this city with its two Baroque squares listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites and its 225 historic monuments promises a journey through time. Between Flemish heritage, memories of the world wars, and generous gastronomy, Arras is an unmissable getaway for lovers of authenticity.
Location and access: the gateway to Hauts-de-France
Located in Pas-de-Calais, Arras is ideally positioned between Lille (45 km), Paris (180 km), and Brussels (160 km). The TGV station, served by direct links from the capital (50 min), makes it an easily accessible destination. By car, the A1 and A26 motorways connect the city to major European routes. Its international airport in Lesquin (30 min) facilitates international arrivals.
Once on site, explore the city center on foot or by bike: Arras is one of France’s most pedestrian-friendly cities, with an efficient bus network (Artis). For nature lovers, the Scarpe canals offer idyllic boat rides. A perfect starting point to explore the beaches of northern Manche and the North Sea or Bruges in Belgium.
History: an open book on 2000 years of civilization
Founded by the Atrebates, a Gallic people, Arras owes its name to "Nemetocenna," its ancient capital. Under the Romans, it became Atuatuca Tungrorum and flourished as a commercial hub thanks to its strategic location. In the Middle Ages, it shone as the center of Flemish cloth production, rivaling Bruges and Ghent. Its fate changed in the 12th century when it joined the Burgundian Netherlands.
The city has endured centuries of sieges, epidemics, and revolutions. Each era has left its mark, from medieval cellars to Renaissance mansions, not to mention the scars of the world wars. Today, Arras is an open-air museum, where every stone tells a story.
The Middle Ages: the golden age of wool and belfries
In the 12th century, Arras became the European capital of wool. Its fine fabrics, dyed with the famous Arras blue, were exported as far as Italy.
The city’s wealth is reflected in its monuments: the belfry (a UNESCO World Heritage site), a symbol of communal freedoms, has towered over the Grand’Place since 1554. At its base, the Flemish gable houses once housed the merchant guilds.
Don’t miss the medieval underground tunnels, a 10 km network of galleries dug beneath the city. Used as shelters during wars, they also served to store beer and food supplies. Today, guided tours (in period costumes!) take visitors deep into 15th-century Arras. A unique underground journey in France.
Renaissance and the Thirty Years’ War: between splendor and decline
The Renaissance marks a turning point for Arras. Under the influence of Italian architects, the city adorns itself with grand townhouses featuring sculpted façades, such as the Hôtel de Guînes (16th century). But the Wars of Religion and the Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648) plunge the city into chaos. In 1640, Louis XIII besieges Arras—then under Spanish control—and reclaims it for France after an epic siege.
The Treaty of the Pyrenees (1659) definitively seals its allegiance to France. To celebrate this victory, Vauban builds the citadel, nicknamed “the Useless Beauty” due to its staggering cost. Today, this UNESCO-listed military masterpiece houses a memorial to the executed and a wildlife park. A moving and unusual visit.
The French Revolution: Robespierre, Arras’ rebellious son
Arras is inseparable from Maximilien de Robespierre, the controversial figure of the French Revolution. Born in 1758 in a house on rue des Rapporteurs (now turned into a museum), he studied there before becoming a lawyer. His radical path, from the Reign of Terror to the guillotine in 1794, still divides historians.
The city preserves several sites linked to his legacy: the Robespierre birthplace, where an exhibition traces his life, and the Palais Saint-Vaast, where he pleaded his first cases. A detour to the Fine Arts Museum offers a chance to admire works from the revolutionary era, such as David’s portraits. A dramatic and fascinating chapter in French history.
World War I and World War II: Arras, a martyred city
Arras paid a heavy price in both world wars. In 1914–1918, the city was 80% destroyed by German bombardments. The Battle of Arras (1917) saw the Allies make massive use of underground tunnels to surprise the enemy. The Vimy Memorial, 10 km away, honors the 11,000 Canadian soldiers who fell to free the region.
In 1940, Arras was bombed again. The citadel served as a prison for resistance fighters, and 218 of them were executed there. Today, the Resistance Museum and the military cemeteries commemorate these sacrifices. The careful reconstruction restored the architectural heritage while modernising the city. A poignant tribute to resilience.
Green spaces: breathing between history and nature
Arras surprises with its parks and gardens, peaceful havens in the heart of the city. The Governor’s Garden, behind the town hall, offers a stunning view of the belfry. Its shaded paths and flowerbeds make it a popular spot for relaxation. Close by, the Citadel Park stretches over 70 hectares, with its ponds, hiking trails and a wildlife park (deer, wild boar, fallow deer).
For a river getaway, hop on an electric boat for a cruise along the Scarpe. The landscaped banks invite strolling, while the allotment gardens on the outskirts hark back to the city’s market-gardening past. The perfect setting for a picnic or a quiet read.
Historic monuments: an exceptional heritage
Arras boasts 225 listed monuments, including two Baroque squares unique in the world: the Grand’Place and the place des Héros. Surrounded by 155 Flemish gable houses, they form a homogeneous and spectacular architectural ensemble, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. By night, their golden lighting creates a magical atmosphere.
Among the must-sees: the abbey of Saint-Vaast (18th century), now home to the Fine Arts Museum and the municipal library; the cathedral of Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Vaast, rebuilt after the Revolution to designs inspired by Notre-Dame de Paris; and the theatre of Arras, a 19th-century neoclassical gem. Each monument tells a chapter of the city’s history.
Religious heritage: between faith and art
The religious heritage of Arras is exceptionally rich. The cathedral of Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Vaast, rebuilt in the 18th century, impresses with its scale (110 m long) and its treasures, including a relic of the Holy Thorn. Inside, admire the stained glass by Max Ingrand and the listed organs.
The Church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste, in Flamboyant Gothic style, houses a 15th-century altarpiece and intricately carved stalls. Meanwhile, the Abbey Church of Saint-Vaast features a sober architecture that contrasts with the opulence of its furnishings. Do not miss the Chapel of the Carmelites, a Baroque masterpiece, and the Convent of the Ursulines, now transformed into a cultural center. A spiritual and artistic journey.
Civil and military heritage: indelible traces
Arras is a city of military remembrance. The Vauban Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a model of 17th-century defensive architecture. Its ramparts, moats, and arsenal make it a truly impressive site. Nearby, the Memorial to the Shot Resistance Fighters pays tribute to those executed during World War II.
Civil heritage is no less remarkable: the Hôtel de Ville, with its belfry and Art Deco wedding hall, stands as a symbol of the city. The townhouses along rue des Jongleurs and rue des Rapporteurs bear witness to its past prosperity. Lastly, the former covered market halls, now a covered market, reflect Arras’s historic commercial role. A journey through everyday history.
Cultural heritage: museums and craftsmanship
Arras is brimming with fascinating museums. The Fine Arts Museum, housed in the Saint-Vaast Abbey, showcases works by Brueghel, Rubens and Van Dyck, as well as a collection of Flemish tapestries. The Resistance Museum, for its part, recounts the commitment of the people of Arras during the Second World War.
For archaeology enthusiasts, the Archaeology Museum displays Gallo-Roman and medieval remains. The Museum of Craftsmanship highlights artisanal know-how, while the Robespierre House delves into revolutionary history. Finally, the Lewarde Mining History Centre (30 minutes away) offers an immersive experience into the world of miners. A varied and captivating cultural offering.
Folklore and gastronomy: the flavors of the North
Arras is a city where you eat well and celebrate. The local cuisine draws from Flemish tradition: carbonade (beef stewed in beer), waterzooi (fish stew), and maroilles tart (a strong-flavored cheese tart). Not to mention waffles, speculoos and craft beers (such as Page 24).
The folklore of Arras is just as rich. The Arras Carnival, one of France’s oldest (since 1571), features floats and giant figures (such as Tiot Tourni, the city’s symbol). The medieval festivals and Christmas markets bring the city to life year-round. A warm and convivial atmosphere, typical of the North.
Great places to eat: where to indulge?
For a gourmet experience, book a table at La Faisanderie (1 Michelin star), where the chef creatively reimagines Northern classics. Fans of brasseries will enjoy Le Petit Rat Porteur, set in a vaulted cellar, or L’Atelier Gourmand, for generous homemade dishes.
For bistros, Le Bouchon d’Arras offers market-fresh cuisine in a cozy setting. For a quick bite, La Maison du Waffle serves crispy waffles, while La Chocolaterie delights sweet-tooths with its artisanal pralines. Finally, Le Comptoir des Saveurs is perfect for a quick yet flavorful lunch. A dynamic culinary scene that will delight every palate.
Cinema, literature and songs: Arras on screen and in music
Arras has inspired many artists. In cinema, the city served as a backdrop for "Un long dimanche de fiançailles" (2004) by Jean-Pierre Jeunet, where its Baroque squares symbolize hope. "La Vie en rose" (2007) also filmed scenes here, as did "Les Poupées russes" (2005) by Cédric Klapisch.
In literature, Victor Hugo mentions Arras in "Les Misérables", while Marguerite Yourcenar set part of her childhood there. In music, the city is celebrated in songs like "Arras" by Pierre Bachelet, or "Les Corons" by Pierre Perret, which pays tribute to the nearby mining basin. An inexhaustible source of inspiration.
Notable figures from Arras: names that have shaped history
Arras has been the birthplace or home of illustrious personalities. Alongside Robespierre, the city gave rise to Joseph Le Bon, a radical revolutionary, and Édouard Branly, inventor of wireless telegraphy. The painter Jean Béraud, master of the Belle Époque, spent his childhood here, as did the writer Jules Verne, whose family was originally from the region.
More recently, Yannick Noah attended the Arras high school, and Dany Boon filmed scenes of “Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis” there. The city also hosted Charles de Gaulle, who studied at the Jesuit college. A galaxy of talent that has shaped French culture.
Why visit Arras? What makes it unique
Arras is a city apart, where every stone tells a story. Its UNESCO heritage, its medieval underground tunnels and its Vauban citadel make it a must-visit cultural destination. But it is also a lively and welcoming city, where you can enjoy a carbonnade on a terrace or stroll through its parks.
Close to Belgium and just 150 km from Bruges, it’s ideal for a weekend or a longer stay. Its blend of tradition and modernity, its festive folklore and its generous gastronomy make it an unforgettable getaway. So, ready to fall under Arras’s spell?